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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.